Santiago

Santiago

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Re-Visting the South

Life is still continuing as usual here in Santiago.
I'm still racing through weeks of classes and tests to find myself on more weekend trips. After this weekend, I will complete my 5-weekend traveling streak. Hartos viajes - So many trips.

This past weekend, after surviving my 2nd Econ test and a History control, we went on our second trip with CIEE - Temuco.
Temuco is a town about 6 hours south of Santiago, which I had actually "visited" before - and by "visited" I mean that I had seen the bus station. This trip was more of cultural excursion. We spent two days visiting different Mapuche communities. The Mapuche are the indigenous people of Chile.

Our first night, at dinner, CIEE recognized all of the October birthdays - so we had a little cake to celebrate.


Me and Abby blowing out the candles - Abby turned 21 on the 26th. This is also her picture.
  The next day, we started our cultural journey. We went to a Mapuche school to paint some of the buildings and play with the kids.



We also taught them how to make s'mores

This is our post- Capture the Flag picture. They loved it.

The school building! They are going to finish the rest. Our goal was to start it for them.

Locamotives

Visiting the 2nd Mapuche Community

Some of the guys from CIEE joined the traditional game - basically hockey.

They danced for us


And invited us to dance too

Puerto Saveedra

The beach

Getting some sun after our hike in Temuco
The trip was successful. We came back knowing so much more about the Mapuche and feeling great about doing service.

(Sorry this blog post is short and lacking in detail - I'm on my way out the door to catch a flight to San Pedro de Atacama. It's a city in the north that we've heard is an absolute must when you come to Chile.)

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Finally Made it to Viña!

I'm blogging from campus again! Just staring at the Cordillera. It has been a beautiful day here. Starting to get a little bit cloudy, but it's still spring! I'm so excited to be wear shorts - even if I do have to wear legging to cover up what's left of my funky bug bites... and to not completely stick out as a gringa.
Chileans are still wearing hoodies and jackets even though it's 85 degrees. I don't know how they do it without overheating or sweating. We have yet to find a bad smelling Chilean. Truth.

San Joaquin
Sorry for lack of an update. Life has been a bit hectic recently.  Last night was a sleepless night. I just finished my second wave of big assignments throughout the semester, so all that I have left to do is take finals and write a couple of final papers! So weird...

This past weekend, "The Vandy Girls" - as we've now been coined - decided to take a day trip to Viña del Mar and Valparaíso. Basically, we went to the beach. :D Sort of.
My host family has an apartment in Viña so they offered it up to me whenever I wanted to use it. Aren´t they amazing!
So after a long week, we took off on Friday afternoon, hopped on a bus and drove and hour and a half toward to the Pacific. The apartment is right on the beach and it was such a beautiful day that we couldn´t help but walk to the apartment from the bus station. It took us an hour, but it was completely worth it.
We watched the sunset and found a fancy little Italian restaurant for dinner. It was a nice little date and we were so happy to finally kick and relax for a day.

The Viña Sunset
The next morning, we woke up and made our way to Valparaíso, which is 5 minute drive. The two towns are right next to each other.
Valpo and Viña have two completely different feels. Viña is more of a resort-beach town and Valpo is a shipping port full of history, character, and colored houses.

A blue house!
 Valpo is also home to Pablo Neruda's 3rd house. We have now successfully visited all three!

Talking to the Pablo bench

The view from Pablo´s bedroom window
La Sebastiana - the house - was my favorite of the three. You could actually live in it, without the heaps of clutter and artefacts from his lifetime. And the view was beautiful.

From La Sebastiana, we wondered around the artsy-graffitied section of Valpo called "Museo Cielo Abierto" which literally means "Open Sky Museum". An outdoor wonderland of mosaics and paint and graffiti - it fits perfectly.

Little mosaic chairs
 Next, we headed to the famous "J Cruz" - Sergio's suggestion - to eat chorillana. Basically a heart attack on a plate. But still quite good. It´s a mixture of pork, eggs, and onions on top of a plate of fries. The Chilean Primanti's?

Here we go!
 The restaurant is famous for its home-y clutter and the table/wall graffiti from the patrons. We decided to add to it before we left.

We left our mark
 Then we found Abby's Chilean puppeteer friend - Marcela - and she walked us around the rest of her magical city.

Valpo is famous for all of it's hills and ascensores - inclines!!


She also took us to meet on of her friends, who was also a puppeteer. He puts on shows with his puppets which are made from old trash.

Mosaic plaza - Sam Smith, this one's for you!
Valpo and Viña truly were magical. We can't wait to go back and take cooking classes and spend more time with Marcela!

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

631 Bug Bites Later...

Back from Peru! And it was worth all 173 bug bites on my legs!
Let's start from the beginning.
As I said earlier, this trip was planned to maximize our four days in Peru, so by the end we were exhausted (and itchy).
We left Santiago at 8pm on Thursday night and flew to the Lima airport. All went smoothly. We watched some movies, enjoyed our LAN in-flight snacks (Alfajors! only our favorite Chilean dessert!), and made it through Peruvian customs without a hitch.
Once we got to the Lima airport, we had to exit the international terminal. We couldn't re-enter the domestic terminal until 1:30 am, so we just hung out in the food court and explored. Once we made it inside, we found a great corner at one of the gates and set up camp. Madeline and Abby slept first, so I watched all of the stuff and wrote in my journal from 2-4.

Just loving the Lima airport. Nice and bright, and full of loudspeakers! But at least we saved money on a short hostel stay and a cab ride!
Soon, it was morning and we boarded our 9:10 flight to Cusco - making sure to brush our teeth with bottled water. We were warned not to drink the water in Peru, so we took every precaution.

Flying over the Andes on the way to Cusco

After landing in Cusco, we found the best airport taxi driver. He took us to a travel company and helped us plan out our whole trip - bus tickets, entrance tickets, taxis - you name it, Walter took care of it. Then he dropped us off to explore Cusco for a little while before our taxi took off through Sacred Valley.
Cusco and the Andes

We somehow bumped into a parade? Somehow we always end up in cities on the days with parades...


Made sure to drink some tea with mate - coca leaves (COCAINE!) to keep from getting altitude sickness :D

After we explored and ate lunch (complete with mate), we found Luis - our taxi driver/tour guide - and started our 4-hour journey through Sacred Valley.
First stop - watch a man bungee jump. Instead of jumping off the platform, they lift up the platform and then the jumper is released from the ground and springs up into the air.



Here's the view from the window during our drive through Sacred Valley - absolutely beautiful.



Then, Luis took us to meet some real life Quechua artisan women. They taught us how to remove the wool, clean it, spin it, dye it, and then weave it. We even got to take a stab at spinning the thread. Madeline and Abby we also able to practice their new Quechua skills - they are taking a course in Quechua at the university.
Spinning the thread

The yarn dyes can also be used as makeup, so she put some on our faces.
Our next stop was the salt mine of Maras. Here, the ancient technology that the Inca's used is still in place to produce and collect salt. There is a natural salt water streak that runs from within the mountains and supplies all of these pods with water. Then the water evaporates, leaving the salt, and the men harvest the salt.


Next, we saw the agricultural terraces of Moray. Each level within these concentric circles is a different temperature. They aren't in use now, but they used to be a way to cultivate different plants in the region.

Finally, we made it to the town of Ollantaytambo where we caught our train to Aguas Calientes - the town below Machu Picchu. We had the most culturally enriching train ride. Madeline and I were sitting across from an older couple from France who were traveling with their 9 other family members through Peru. They only spoke French and the husband spoke a little bit of Spanish and English, whereas Madeline and I could speak Spanish and English, and she could speak a tiny bit of French. It was the funnies language barrier.
They asked where we were from and it took about 5 minutes to click.
"Los Estados Unidos"... blank stare..."The United States"... still nothing...."America?"... "Ahh! América" (said with a super heavy French accent)

Abby - on the other hand - was sitting with three girls from Sweden. Luckily, they could speak English. After bumping into them repeatedly throughout the weekend, we learned that one would be studying abroad from med school at Vandy in the fall! How crazy is that?!

We made it to Aguas Calientes by 10:30, grabbed dinner, bought lunch, and hopped in our beds (we were so happy about that one - airport chairs are not super comfortable).
The next morning, we woke up at 6:30 to rain. We had prepared ourselves for the possibility, but had hoped that it wouldn't happen. Alas, it did. So we donned our rain jackets, rearranged our bags, ate breakfast, and hopped on the bus up to Machu Picchu.
Once we got to the top, we met up with our tour - which lasted 2 hours. The first half was full of rain, clouds, and mist. But it made our Machu Picchu experience even more mystical. The ruins would disappear into the clouds and then reappear. It was like magic.
Walking in and seeing the first set of ruins.

Machu Picchu in the morning

The guard's house

Ponchos and umbrellas galore



With the ruins


The switchbacks we drove up to get to the top


Eating lunch in the amphitheater
After lunch, everything cleared up and we walked back up to the top to find magnificent views and some of the native wildlife.

Me and the llama in front of a cloudless Machu Picchu




This looks fake, but I swear it's real.
We left Machu Picchu around 1 pm - with our legs full of bug bites. We hadn't really prepared for that one. The sand flies attacked our legs and left us with spotted, itchy legs.

We hopped on the train back to Ollantaytambo, then took another taxi back to Cusco, ate dinner, and started the next leg of our trip - an overnight bus to Puno. We left Cusco at 10pm and arrived in Puno at 4:45 - just as the sun came up. We decided to seize the day and start touring. We left the bus station at 5:45 and got on a private boat that took us out onto Lake Titicaca to see the floating islands of Uros.

As we traveled to the islands, we found a family was rowing back to their house so we hooked their boat onto the back of ours and continued along. The family we picked up led us to their island so that we could tour around, learn how they built it, and try on their clothes. They also drove us around on their boat and sang to us in Aymara, English, and French.








After riding around, they got us to buy some of their artisan quilts and bracelets and then - with empty wallets - we left the island. They live for tourism and know just how to make you spend money. Tricky tricky.

We then went back to the mainland for our 9am bus to Arequipa - we literally spent less than 5 hours in Puno because it is so far away from everything else.
Driving across the Peruvian desert for 6 hours was quite interesting. We stopped in a couple towns along the way and saw some of the standard transportation - motor taxis and tricycles. These little things we hilarious and they were EVERYWHERE.

We saw some beautiful scenery during our drive - lakes, mountains, and endless desert along with flamingos, alpaca, and classic sheep.





6 long hours later - complete with a medical talk on the bus advising us about the benefits of ginseng and laxatives - we made it to Arequipa. We were so happy to get off that bus, but moved on to our next location - the airport. All in all, we spent about 28 straight hours on some sort of transportation - bus, train, taxi, bus, boat, bus, plane. Pretty crazy.

After getting to Lima that night, we grabbed dinner and crashed in our hostel - but not before taking some hot showers and counting our bug bites. Between the three of us, we came to the grand total of 631. Madeline wins - 310.

The next morning, we woke up early to eat and walk around Miraflores - the nice part of Lima where we were staying. We saw the main church, the city hall, and then we bumped into this sweet tennis complex and landed in "Love Park" which overlooked the Pacific Ocean.



Soon, our time was up and we went to the airport for our 12 pm flight back home to Santiago. Quite the whirlwind.
The front of my legs - the back is a lot worse, but I'll spare you.
When I got home, I checked my emails and had received this gem from my host dad:

"Estimada Allison

Puno está a mucha altura, camina tranquila y no bailes mucho.. Cuídate y mándale saludos a tus amigos.
Para que nos recuerdes... fuimos de Cleopatra y Marco Antonio a una fiesta.
Saludos y cuídate
Your step father"

Translation:
Dear Allison,
Puno is at a high altitude, walk slowly and don't dance a lot... Take care of yourself and say hi to your friends. So that you remember us (We were Cleopatra and Marco Antonio at a party).
Take care,
Your stepfather

Accompanied with this photo:
Gotta love them :D

Last, but most definitely not least, I have spent the last 28 hours glued to the tv in my room - I had never turned it on before. The rescue of the 33 miners in Copiapó has captured Chilean hearts and minds for the last two months. I'm sure you all know this, or you must be living under a rock - they were all safely rescued tonight and the news has been going crazy. I have been watching the Chilean news since last night and it makes me realize how much I've learned in my 3 months down here.

Also - random fact - today in my history class I learned that more people watched the miners' rescue than the world cup final! How crazy is that?

The 33 are home
"¡C-H-I - CHI! ¡L-E - LE! ¡CHI-CHI-CHI, LE-LE-LE! ¡Los mineros de Chile!"
¡Viva Chile, mierda!